Scenario: You’ve just pulled into the local Cruise Night with your freshly-polished and detailed pride and joy. She’s “lookin’ good,” and a crowd of admirers quickly assemble to get a closer look and hear all about your gem on wheels. You proudly field onlookers’ questions and, of course, someone wants to “hear her run”. Having already exclaimed that “she purrs like a kitten,” you slide behind the wheel and turn the key, expecting the engine to instantly spring to life. Instead, you’re greeted with a sickening, groaning noise as the engine laboriously turns over and the battery goes flatter than the lens on the Hubbel Space Telescope. The crowd quickly dissipates and walks away shaking their heads, leaving you sitting there quite embarrassed, wondering what happened!
The following may seem elementary, and many of you may already know all about it, but I never cease to be amazed at the number of phone calls I receive from owners of older cars with 6 volt systems who are experiencing similar starting problems and are stymied as to the solution to their woes. American cars and trucks didn’t switch over to 12 Volt systems until the mid-1950’s. Far too many owners of vehicles with the original 6 volt systems who experience starting problems in desperation convert, or attempt to convert, their vehicle to 12 Volts using special batteries or 6/12 Volt “converter” units, some resembling Rube Goldberg inventions, with mixed results, rather than getting to the heart of the problem! My contention is, and always has been, “If they started back then, they should start now!” However, that’s true only if everything related to the starting system is in top condition.
I experienced this problem firsthand when I recently bought a 1949 Cadillac limousine. The previous owner complained that the car would never start once the engine warmed up, so he had some enterprising “mechanic” install a 6/12 Volt “converter” that would supposedly “fix the problem”. I guess it may have worked for awhile – until the owner pulled the car into his garage one day and noticed smoke billowing from the engine compartment. Yep, he had a wiring fire! After emptying a fire extinguisher on the melted mess, he became disgusted with the car and decided to sell it.
Once I got the car home I went to work. I discovered the converter mounted on the inner fender well with a myriad of narrow gauge wires going everywhere, most of which had fused together during the fire. I first eliminated this converter and deposited it where it belonged – in the scrap metal pile. I then cut back and disposed of all non-original wiring and proceeded to solder in new, proper gauge wires. I removed the starter and brought it to a local re-builder, who informed me the armature was junk. I had a few extra parts and a new solenoid, so he was able to put together a starter, which now functioned as it should.
Then I found that someone had installed a light gauge positive battery cable. I had a new one custom-made at R.I. Wiring Service in the heaviest gauge they offered – ONE GAUGE. Finally, I removed the negative ground strap and cleaned it, including all points at which it was connected – starter bolt, frame, and the battery terminal itself. I then cleaned the end of the starter where it bolts to the bell-housing, and the bell-housing itself, and installed the rebuilt starter. I bought a heavy-duty 6 volt battery with a minimum of 650 cold cranking amps and installed it. VOILA! The engine now “whips over” and starts like new, no matter how hot the engine!
In summary, here are some things to check/remedy if you experience hard starting on your 6 Volt vehicle:
1. Condition of the engine itself. The engine must have at least decent compression. Check the condition of electrical components like ignition points, condenser, rotor, distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, engine timing, condition of the carburetor, and proper carburetor adjustments.
2. Check the condition of the starter motor. Worn brushes, armature or solenoid, and worn end bushings can all cause problems.
3. CLEAN all electrical connections, including battery terminals, battery posts, and all points where battery cables attach to the starter and frame. Don’t forget to clean any rust and/or paint from the starter and the bellhousing where the starter bolts!
4. Buy the heaviest-duty battery available. A minimum of 650 cold cranking amps is recommended.
5. Install the heaviest gauge positive battery cable possible, such as #1 gauge as previously outlined. Be sure to install a cable of the PROPER LENGTH! Too long a cable could result in current/voltage “drop”, which will adversely affect the starting system.
If all of the above is observed, your pride and joy should spring to life upon demand each and every time!