Category Archives: Shocks Suspension

STOP PLEASE DON’T CHOP THAT CADILLAC OR ARE YOUR DESIGN SKILLS REALLY BETTER THAN HARLEY EARLS

by Art Gardner

I have had ten 1949-56 Cadillac’s over the last 25 years. Some I kept bone stock, one I highly modified, and to several I made minor “tweaks” to improve performance/reliability/safety/convenience. From my experience, I encourage you to consider keeping your ’49 or any other old Cadillac completely stock or very stock — for financial, aesthetic, and enjoyment reasons. Don’t do something you will regret later, as there are many hidden dangers and pitfalls in modifying old Cadillac’s.
To me, the biggest drawback is that most people are not as skilled at car design as the original designers (no surprise there) and the car is likely to end up looking and performing much worse than the original. Secondly, it is often a financial disaster to make big changes to a ’49 or other old Cadillac. Many people start down a path of “customizing” a classic car by chopping the top, frenching the headlights, shaving the door handles and other exterior chrome, adding louvers, replacing the engine with a generic Chevy 350, etc. Most of the time this ends up ruining the car permanently. Do you really think you can make a classic Cadillac more beautiful than did the original designers? Perhaps, but most such modifications rob the car of its intrinsic appeal and make it uglier, not prettier. Sometimes the car does end up looking good. But often not.
I strongly recommend retaining the original drive train, as the 331 Cadillac engine is very, very good – in fact it was at the top of the heap for decades and is just as mechanically reliable as any small block Chevy. Same thing for the our HydraMatic transmission. It is just about bullet-proof. If yours doesn’t work like it should or if it leaks, get it professionally rebuilt and enjoy years of trouble-free automatic shifting.
Without going into all of the gory details, here are my bottom-line recommendations, learned the hard way, for what works well on a 1949 Cadillac:
1. If it came with 6 volts, keep it 6 volts if possible. Pay attention to grounds and the proper cables. Six volts works!
2. If you must improve the electrics, use a 6 volt alternator (keeping the voltage regulator in place for looks).
3. On a ’49, just a “sample” of the current goes through the ammeter, so keep the ammeter as is.
4. Use a better battery (I like the 6v Optima a lot).
5. Add air conditioning if you have to in order to use the car (in which case you would have to convert the car to 12 volts). Otherwise, don’t.
6. Use stainless steel brake lines (to resist internal corrosion) and dual circuit master cylinders for redundant safety. If sticking with a single circuit master, have it sleeved with brass or stainless steel to stop internal corrosion. If you can afford it, have the wheel cylinders sleeved with brass or stainless steel also. Use a remote brake reservoir (you can use parts from a ’54 and later Cadillac) to allow you to check the fluid regularly.
7. Convert your non-functioning clock to a quartz movement.
8. Use an electronic ignition module (e.g., Pertronix) or a dual point distributor plate for better ignition.
9. Keep the exhaust stock, but increase the pipe size slightly to a 2¼ inches diameter for better breathing.
10. Keep the fuel system stock. If vapor lock or engine overheating is a problem, use an electric fuel pump for “go” and keep the mechanical pump just for “show” (remove the rod and route the fuel through the non-working mechanical pump).
11. Avoid adding power steering; but if you must, use a later Cadillac system. Avoid rack and pinion.
12. Use radial tires. If your car doesn’t have power steering, look for radials with a very narrow contact patch (e.g., the Diamondback 700R15) and run the recommended higher inflation air pressure.
13. Keep your stock radio, but have it rebuilt. Rebuilders can add an MP3 input to the radio to play FM and digital music files.
14. Add seat belts, which can be easily done. On 4-door sedans and Series 75 limos, you should add shoulder belts.
15. Install a thicker stabilizer bar up front (like the’49 limos and hearses have) – you will be glad you did and no one will know.
16. Stick with the vacuum wipers if you can. If not, enjoy your electric wipers!

If you follow this advice, you will love using your car and will find that you drive it more and more. Above all, my cardinal rule is that if you feel compelled to change something, please change it in a way that can be undone easily (keep the original parts if you can and make the change a bolt-on operation). In other words, make the change a reversible one! Also, if possible, try to make the change look like it came that way from the factory. For example, if you are replacing the generator with an alternator, don’t use a chrome-plated alternator that will look terribly out of place in a 1949 Cadillac engine bay. Instead, get one that is black or paint it black to fit in with the rest of the engine bay.
In the end, it is your car, not mine, so do what makes you happy. But if you do want to tweak your car some, you will be miles ahead if you learn from my mistakes and triumphs. If you have specific questions about any of this, feel free to contact me

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A FEW WORDS ON 49 SPRING HEIGHTS

Front Springs
There is usually no need to replace a front spring if it is not broken. With the front wheels on the ground, the front shock absorber arm should be about 1½-2 inches above the rubber bumper directly under the arm. If the shock absorber arm touches the rubber bumper with the wheels on the ground the springs are too high or “too strong”. As shown on a diagram on page 207 of the shop manual, there should be a distance of 4½-5¼ inches between the lower suspension arm and a point in the middle of the frame.

Rear Springs
The bottom of the ’49 rear fender skirt should be at the center of the rear hub cap medallion. More specifically, the ’49 shop manual has a diagram on page 208 showing the desired rear spring height. The center of the rear axle (or the center of the axle flange with the hub cap removed) should be 6-7 inches below the frame member directly above it. As these two surfaces are not in the same plane, it would be best to use two or more straight edges to approximate the linear distances between the surfaces. Note that the shop manual also states on page 48 that a variation of ½ inch is allowed in the rear spring height and that a variation of 3/8 inch is allowed between the right and left spring. The shop manual further states on page 48 that springs settle after installation, so it is best to wait 2,000 miles before taking these measurments to allow the springs to seat and settle. I had new rear springs installed some years ago and the back of my car was very high and looked odd for several months afterwards before the springs settled.

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49 POWER STEERING REQUEST

My Dad bought a new dark blue four door Cadillac in 1950, trading in our 1938 Cadillac Sedan. Although quite young I loved that ’50 Cadillac. I always felt very safe riding in it and have many fond memories of it. For example, I was “allowed” to sit in the front seat, next to my Dad, only as long as I did not touch the wonder bar on the radio. It was an irresistible marvel. We called it a “wonder bar” because when you touched it the station selector would wonder back and forth, never finding a station. It would then have to go back to the dealer for repair.
As I got older I decided I wanted my very own replacement for the ’50. The rear fenders on the 1949 were more appealing to me so that was the way to go. I also wanted a car with the new OHV V-8. I had had a 1937 and wanted the newer motor. After several misses I finally did get a nice original 1949 two door fastback. It’s a great drive. My wife and I like to take it out for leisurely Saturday drives around some of our lakes. That old gal (the Car!!) sure turns heads.

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It would be more fun for me if it had power steering, guess I am getting old and soft. I have bought power steering parts from a 1955 Cadillac parts car to convert the 1949 to a factory like power steering set up. This is not a bolt in type of conversion and so I want to do it correctly the first time with safety and a workman like appearance.
Guys I really need your help here. I would like to hear from anyone who has successfully done this conversion or knows someone who has.