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1949 CADILLAC DEALER INSTALLED ACCESSORIES

If you bought your new ’49 without many options and decided later that you just had to have one or more of these goodies, all was not lost. On December 2, 1948, in the “Parts and Accessories Bulletin” below, the Cadillac factory informed distributors and dealers that many of these were available for sale. The “net” price in the bulletin is what the dealer paid for the item, while the car owner paid the “list” price.

CADILLAC MOTOR CAR DIVISION
GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION
DETROIT 32, MICHIGAN

PARTS AND ACCESSORIES BULLETIN, No. 494, December 2, 1948
TO ALL DISTRIBUTORS AND DEALERS:
Subject: 1949 Accessories Prices

Accessory Name Part # Net List Installation
Radio, Front Compartment 49-60S,61 ,62,75
7258155
62.80
81.00
4.50

Antenna; Fender Mtg. 49-60s,61,62
1455342
8.65
12.00
1.60

Antenna, Fender Mtg. 49-75
1455343
8.65
12.00
1.60

Radio, Rear Compartment 49-75
7241938
93.50
115.00

Installation Kit, Rear Radio (Without E1ec. Div. Lift)
1453217
16.50
20.00

Installation Kit, Rear Radio (With E1ec. Div. Lift)
1453218
16.50
20.00

Radio & Kit, Rear Compt. 49-75
—
110.00
135.00
12.00

Antenna, Trunk Mtg. 49-75
1444172
10.00
13.50
3.50

Auxiliary Radio Speaker
7258495
12.35
18.85
6.00

Automatic Heating System 49-605.61,62
3122353
79.00
98.50
8.50

Automatic Heating System 49-75
3122354
110.00
132.00
8.50

Standard Heating System 49-60s,61.62
3122931
40.00
50.00
5.00

Fog Lamps (Pair) 49-605,61,62
929089
32.00
40.00
0

Fog Lamps (Pair) 49-75
929122
32.00
40.00
0

Back-Up Lights (Dual) 49-60S, 61, 62
929151
11.50
15.00
3.50

Back-Up Lights (Single) 49-75
929150
7.20
9.50
2.50

Spotlight with Mirror (Left) 49-60S, 61, 62
929117
18.25
25.95
3.25

Spotlight with Mirror (Right) 49-60S, 61, 62
929106
18.25
25.95
3.25

Glareproof Mirror
145416
5.20
6.50
0

Outside Rear View Mirror 1454905-6 3.85 6.00 0.50
Special Steering Wheel 3630079 18.00 22.50 0
Sun Visor 1455598-99 7.50 12.50 2.50
Chrome Wheel Disc (Sombrero Hub Cap) 3508244-821 6.80 8.00 0
Chrome Trim Ring (With Small Hub Cap) 1097728 1.52 1.90 0
Windshield Washer 1455132 5.75 8.25 2.75

There seems to be a 35% mark-up between the two prices. Of even more interest is the relative difference between what these items cost when our cars were new and what you might pay for them today, either NOS or second-hand. For example, a front compartment radio listed for $81 in December 1948, while its vacuum antenna cost only $12. A working ’49 Cadillac radio usually can be bought today for between $50 and $200 depending on your luck or bargaining skills, but a vacuum antenna with a good mast and which works well is at least that much, if not hundreds of dollars more. Also, while a non-working radio can probably be repaired for no more than a couple of hundred bucks, to have your antenna restored is equally expensive.

Similarly, a windshield washer set up is $8.25 on the list. While a windshield washer pump is inexpensive today, an authentic square bottle is hard to find and can cost hundreds of dollars.

Another item of interest is the Automatic Heating System, which lists for $132 on a Series 75 limo and $98.50 on lesser cars. Installation of either was only $8.50 back then, but it is very telling that this is the second most expensive installation job on the list; the first being the $12 cost of installing the rear radio on a Series 75. Though I’ve never worked on a Series 75 rear radio, as anyone who has worked on the complicated Automatic Heating System can tell you, 8½ bucks to install it is probably the biggest bargain on the list.
Another item that seems relatively expensive is the Auxiliary Radio Speaker which mounts on the rear package shelf. At $18.85 it cost more than a vacuum antenna back then, yet today these can be purchased relatively cheaply; for example, I bought one for $10 several years ago. However, the installation of a rear speaker is the third most expensive installation job on the list at $6. This is understandable, since it is time consuming to cut a hole for the speaker in the rear package shelf, then run a wire from its dash switch up inside the windshield post and then between the headliner and the roof of the car into the trunk area, somehow without harming the headliner.

The same is true of back up lights, a pair of which for Series 60, 61 and 62 listed for $11.50, also more than an antenna. Yet today a pair of back up lights are not expensive to buy. At $3.50 their installation in 1948 cost less than installing a speaker, since their wire simply runs out in the open from the coil, then down the firewall to a fuse, then under the car to the transmission switch and back to the trunk.

An item that seems about right in relative terms is sombrero hub caps. At 8 bucks each, a set of them would set you back $32, which was lots of money back then. A set of new sombreros today costs hundreds of dollars, making it about the same cost in terms of 2011 dollars.

Conspicuous by their absence on this Dec. ’48 list are fuel filters and oil filters. However, later in the model year they were both offered as a dealer option. As an option, , the list price of the fuel filter was $3.20, but from about VIN number 49xx33500, which would be cars built in May 1949 and later, fuel filters became standard factory equipment. Oil filters, on the other hand, only became standard factory equipment in 1954, though research by ‘49er Fred Hammerle has shown that a few ’49 Cads did have factory installed oil filters.

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IF YOU HAVE 6 VOLT STARTING PROBLEMS

When I first got my ’49, after running for a while on hot days, if I turned off the engine for 15-30 minutes it would frequently refuse to re-start. The starter would turn ever so slowly and the only way I could get the car going again would be to jump start it or let it to cool off. This is a common problem with 6 volt cars and, of course, always happens when admiring onlookers are standing around. I took the advice of the proprietor of an auto electric and improved my 6 volt system. This involved:

1. Installing a 6 volt battery with at least 600 cold cranking amps, which are readily available. 6 volt lead-acid batteries are sold by several manufacturers for less than $100, though authentic looking Delco batteries are more expensive. Mine is an “Optima”, which are now available at www.amazon.com for about $125. Optimas use a different technology than lead-acid batteries and have more than 800 cold cranking amps. An Optima’s downside is that it is much smaller in size than an ordinary 6 volt battery, so I had to fabricate a rectangular piece of plywood to go over its top and hold it down in the car’s battery box;

2. Having my starter re-built by an auto electric shop with heavy duty field coils and, to assure a good ground, removing all paint from the areas where the starter, its bolts and the flywheel housing meet;

3. Installing a custom-made extra-thick positive battery cable made up from 600 volt welding cable. Similar thick cables can be bought ready-made from McVey’s, The Brillman Company and Cole’s Ignition and Electric, Rochester NY;

4. Installing a brand new negative battery cable, after scraping clean the negative battery post, as well as the place on the frame and the starter bolt it is attached to. These can be bought from McVey’s and, I think, from Cole’s;

5. Making sure that the small ground straps from the back of the cylinder heads to bolts on the nearby firewall are in good shape. If not, new ones can be bought from McVey’s in Kansas and, I think, from Cole’s. As with the starter, scrape any paint off the cylinder head and firewall where these small straps mount.

After doing the above, when I press its button the starter jumps to attention and says “yes sir”, while onlookers, if any, applaud

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JUST ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE

The day dawned bright and clear, the sweet smell of old (and new) money wafting in the gentle breeze, and a forecast of plentiful sunshine and temps in the ‘80s. As I left the hotel lobby I was greeted by a row of stately Rolls Royce and Bentley automobiles parked just outside the entrance. As you may have surmised by now, I wasn’t in New England, nor was I attending a local show. This event was the prestigious 5th annual Boca Raton Concours d’Elegance held on the beautiful grounds of the Boca Raton Club and Resort in the Florida city of that name on February 27th. As luck would have it, the date coincided perfectly with my annual February vacation and week-long stay with my sister, Cheryl, who resides in St. Cloud, Florida. I invited her and her fiancé to go with me, and we proceeded to book a night at the magnificent Waldorf Astoria, built in 1926, and adjacent to the plush golf course where the show is held.

This year’s show had special significance for me, as I learned that a 1949 Cadillac convertible, named The Contessa, which I finished a ground-up restoration on in 2008, had been invited by the Concours Selection Committee to participate. (See photo next page.) This car is owned by ‘49ers Randy and Susan Denchfield from Chevy Chase, Maryland. Though the car didn’t win and award, it was an honor simply to be invited to a show of this caliber, and The Contessa certainly garnered her fair share of admirers and compliments!

Also in attendance was Jay Leno, comedian and host of the Tonight Show. Jay happens to be an aficionado of old cars and motorcycles, and possesses an impressive collection of Duesenbergs and Stanley Steamers, amongst other things. He was spotted throughout the day traversing the grounds in his own golf cart complete with chauffeur, followed by his entourage, viewing the 200+ vehicles on display. At the awards ceremony that afternoon, Jay presented his own award, “The Big Dog Garage Award” to the vehicle he most liked personally. Fittingly, the award went to a stunning 1957 Eldorado Brougham, the nut-and-bolt restoration of which was completely done by the owner.

There was something for everyone at this show, including a separate display of over 40 vintage motorcycles. The European makes were well represented by several Rolls Royce, Bentleys, MGs, Triumphs, Maseratis, Aston Martins an extremely rare and unusual 1930 Minerva with custom coachwork, made in Belgium and one of only seven known to exist. In addition, there were classes for Muscle Cars, Model Ts and As, classics such as Auburn, Cord Duesenberg, Packard and, of course, Cadillac.

We all had an absolutely wonderful time, and I highly recommend this event to anyone who can attend it. As we reluctantly left the premises and boarded our Honda Pilot for the 3-hour drive back to St. Cloud, we were abruptly and harshly jolted back to reality, but appreciative of our opportunity to hob-nob with the “rich and famous”.

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INSTALLING UNIVERSAL JOINTS ON YOUR 49

by Art Gardner

If you start getting a “clanking” noise under your car, particularly when you step on or release the gas pedal, your universal joints may be worn and in need of replacement. I recently installed a set of U-joints on my car’s driveshaft. It took about 30 minutes to drive out the old ones and install the new ones. All you need to replace them is a screwdriver, a hammer, a large socket to support the end of the driveshaft and receive the “cups” and a 17 mm impact socket (I think 11/16) to use with the hammer to drive out the cups.

You remove the clips and drive one cup in (part at top left in the illustration below), which forces the opposite cup out. Then grab the cup that is jutting out with a pair of pliers and twist it until it is removed. Then tap the cross piece (part at lower left) back in to drive the other cup out the other way, then grab and remove the second cup with pair of pliers. Now just position the new cross in the yoke (part at lower right) and tap in the new cups, being careful to make sure that the needle bearings all stay in place. Once you have the cups tapped into position, lock them in place by installing the new C-clips (2.1440).

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GREETINGS AND SALUTATIONS MY FELLOW 49ERS

As my dear friend, founder, and past-Prez Jay Friedman takes a well-deserved respite from his sundry duties, I’d like to thank him, on behalf of the Chapter, for his tireless work and dedication to our “cause”. Jay’s journalistic expertise and contributions over the past 10 years have produced an outstanding newsletter, the ’49 Times. I sure have some big shoes to fill and hope that I can live up to the task! From its humble beginnings in 2001 with a mere 10 members, our Chapter has blossomed into an organization with over 240 members from across the US and abroad, all due to Jay’s tireless efforts. Kudos also go out to Frank Lindauer and Art Gardner for their hard work and contributions over the years!

When Jay divulged his intent to retire, and proposed I take over as Prez, I found it impossible to decline. I couldn’t, in good conscience, face the prospect of all his hard work withering on the vine and the possibility of our Chapter fading into oblivion. When I accepted, Jay suggested an Inauguration. However, upon my insisting that Harley Earl be procured as guest speaker, he quickly abandoned the plan! I guess that I eat, breathe and sleep 1949 Cadillacs, and that 1949 was the year of my birth also helped clinch the deal.

A bit about myself. I’ve been addicted to old cars since I was a 17-year old high school Senior in 1967, and since then have owned and restored numerous makes and models, ranging from a Model T Speedster to a 1952 Crosley Roadster. In 1987, while searching for a 1949 Cadillac Club Coupe like my late Dad owned when I was a kid, I acquired a nice, solid, original ’48 Coupe instead, and became hooked on ’48-’49 Cadillacs forever. In the interim I’ve restored a ’48 and ’49 convertible, two ’49 Club Coupes and, most recently, finished a ’49 sedan. In the process, I’ve become quite familiar with the beasts. Though I don’t consider myself an expert, I currently serve as a ’48-’49 Technician, along with Jay, and always enjoy meeting, talking with, and fielding questions from other owners of these magnificent automobiles.

With that said, I welcome, and urge all of you to submit tech tips, stories and photos of your Pride and Joy, and anything else relevant to ’48 and ’49 Cadillacs (and ‘50s, too. –Ed.) Don’t let concerns over lack of literary ability, punctuation, spelling, etc. prevent you from submitting material. Art, Jay and I will be happy to “polish” your contributions prior to publication. You may submit items for consideration to me at: 102 Monroe Street, Douglas, Massachusetts 01516 USA or email me at: 49caddyman@gmail.com. I may also be reached by phone at 508-476-3490. If you submit photos, please indicate if you wish them to be returned to you.

I look forward to serving you as the new Prez, and meeting you in person at the CLC Grand National this August in Ohio. I plan to conduct a Chapter meeting late in the afternoon on the day of the show. If you would like to volunteer to give a brief presentation, “show and tell”, tech session, etc. at the meeting, please contact me. Details will be forthcoming in the June issue of the ’49 Times. “Keep ‘Em Rolling”.

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MY 6107

Since photos and descriptions of many members’ cars have appeared in the Times over the years, I thought that as my “swan song” I would exercise my prez-idential privileges to show off my own 6107 2-door club coupe, “The Green Queen”. She’s a “late” car, built Oct. 20, 1949 and sold by Rickenbaugh Motors in Denver. (This Cadillac dealer is still in existence and participated in the Grand National in that city in 2001.) In 1974 The Queen went from the original owner to two antique car dealers in Colorado in quick succession, one of whom replaced the original Madeira Maroon paint with a generic dark green. The second dealer sold it in 1975 to a lady in Laramie, Wyoming who, 2 years later, sold it to a collector in the Chicago area. I bought it from him via an ad in Hemmings in Sept. 1984 for $5,200. (‘49s were cheaper in those good old days.) It had been undercoated when new, so was practically rust-free and, though it ran well, was a bit worn cosmetically and mechanically.
I had the motor rebuilt in 1985 and had it re-painted in 1986 another dark green (close to Dartmouth Green, a ’49 color). The next year I had the original worn-out Series 61 upholstery replaced. In 1988, The Queen appeared in the opening scenes of the film “Driving Miss Daisy”, filmed in our Atlanta neighborhood. It played the role of the car of the character Boolie, Miss Daisy’s son, who was played by Dan Akroyd. In one scene Mr. Akroyd drove the car, with Morgan Freeman, who played the character Hoke, as his passenger. If there was such a thing, it surely would have received an Academy Award as “Best Car”.
Originally equipped with Hydra-matic, shortly after I bought the Queen I had stick shift installed with a correct 3.77 ratio differential for that transmission. As she’ll cruise at interstate speeds like a ’49 should, I drive her quite a bit, including 13 trips to CLC Grand Nationals and 3 National Driving Tours as far away from my Georgia home as Maine and Texas. I took the photo below at the ’08 CLC Grand National in New Jersey, following which my wife Elaine and I drove to Manhattan where we left her in a lock-up garage on 42nd Street and then went out “on the town”.
The Queen is in excellent “driver” condition and totally stock except for a cheap Radio Shack under-dash AM/FM radio which plays through the original rear speaker. The vacuum antenna works (when it is in the mood) via a valve from an early ‘40s Cadillac that I hooked up. To enhance the look of the interior (in my humble opinion), I bought from chapter member Dennis Akerman a NOS “standard” steering wheel which is brown in color and of simple construction, unlike the fancy deluxe ivory-colored or black wheels found on most ‘49s. Dennis also sold me a NOS radio delete plate which hides the dash holes where the original radio mounted. Installing goodies like these, along with routine maintenance and occasional major repairs, is enough to keep me busy in retirement. I do much of the work in my garage-workshop, but occasionally need the help of my friends John Wright, a professional restorer, and Times editor Art Gardner for tasks requiring greater skills than my own

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A BETTER WAY TO REMOVE YOUR STEERING WHEEL

by Art Gardner

If, like lots of us, you don’t have a steering wheel puller, I’ve come up with another, if not better, way to remove your steering wheel. Besides doing away with the need for a puller, this method spares the horn button contact from possible damage.

Refer to the drawing below, which shows the top of the steering wheel after the horn button is removed. First, remove the large nut which holds the wheel. Using a small diameter round file (no, not the trash can), file “half-moon” slots into the middle of two opposite sides of the nut to line up with the threaded holes in the hub of the steering wheel.

Now, refer to the drawing on the next page. Go to a hardware store or other supplier of fasteners which sells 3/8-16 “washer-head” bolts, sometimes referred to as washer-head screws. (These are bolts or screws with an integral built-in washer as part of the bolt head.) I suggest that you buy 6 such bolts: 3 pairs or 2 each, in lengths of ¾ inch, 7/8 inch and 1 inch (1.9, 2.2 and 2.5 cm.), if available. You can see two of them in the drawing.

As shown in the drawing below, loosely screw on the large steering wheel hold-down nut the until most or all of its threads have engaged the steering shaft, but with some space still remaining between the bottom of the nut and the steering wheel hub. At the same time, make sure the two “half-moon” slots are lined up with the threaded holes in the steering wheel hub. Then, starting with the 1 inch pair, screw two of the washer-head bolts past the “half-moon” slots and into the threaded holes in the steering wheel hub until the washer heads are snug against the large steering wheel nut.

Now, using a wrench, slowly and carefully tighten the washer-head bolts, each one a fraction of a turn at a time, so that neither bolt puts more pressure on the nut than the other. Advantageously, this works by putting force on the large threads of the steering column shaft, instead of on the end of the shaft (where it could damage the horn contact).

As I did, you may find that you will have to exchange the first pair of washer-head bolts for a shorter pair as the steering wheel is pulled up. You may also find that you’ll have to unscrew the large steering wheel nut one or more turns to create more space between it and the steering wheel hub. When the steering wheel breaks loose, you may or may not hear a snapping or popping noise. Like the 3 guys lowering the engine in the factory photo on page 3, “Easy does it”

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MORE ON HOOKING UP HEATER HOSES

Chapter member Daniel Parker of Palmdale, California sent in the diagram below and wrote that he thought it “might help the next time someone asks how to route heater hoses”. To aid in using Daniel’s diagram, members may want to refer to the June ’09 issue of the Times, in which there appeared an article describing in text the routing of these hoses.

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AN INTERESTING FORTY-NINE FACTORY PHOTO

This factory photo, probably taken at Cadillac’s Clark Street plant in Detroit, shows 3 workers lowering a ’49 overhead valve engine into a car’s chassis. After studying the picture a bit, there are several interesting factoids that can be gleaned from it.

Art Gardner points out that the installation does not appear to be taking place on an assembly line; it looks more like a small side room since there are non-Cadillac cars in the background (of which the first is a Chevrolet or Pontiac station wagon while behind it appears to be a ’46 or ’47 Buick). Obviously, the three men are posing for the photographer. The guys doing the work seem to be the two men at the left and right, as they are wearing shop clothes and have their hands on the chain hoist and engine as they maneuver it into position. The guy in the middle must be a supervisor, as he has on a white shirt and seems to be motioning the guy on the left working the hoist to lower the engine v e r y s l o w l y and carefully so it won’t bang into anything. The job of the guy at the right must be to push and pull on the motor to doubly make sure of just that, as well as to ensure that the downward facing motor mount bolts go straight into their holes on the frame.

It’s an early 1949 Cadillac engine, as there are 2 bolts at the top holding on the valve cover instead of the 4 bolts around the perimeter of the valve cover used later in the year. Also, the spark plug wires are enclosed in a flat enclosed conduit bolted to the valve cover, rather than the open metal loops used later in the year. In addition, compare the color of the paint on the letters and 3 lines at the forward end of the valve cover to the supervisor’s shirt: it is somewhat darker. This leads me to believe the paint on the valve cover lettering is the silvery gray used on very early cars rather than the white paint used the rest of the year.

Looking at the chassis, several tidbits of info emerge. The first is that there is a ’48 horn ring on the steering wheel, a further indication that this is a very early ’49 Cadillac. The ’48 and ’49 steering wheels are the same, but the ’48 horn ring is a 180 degree half-circle around the lower half of the wheel like the horn ring in the photo, while the ’49 horn ring is a 360 degree full circle. The next thing you’ll notice is that under the left elbow of the man at the right is a clutch pedal. Also, you can just make out under his left hand that there are two shift levers coming out of the steering column rather than the single lever used with Hydra-matic, so this car has a manual transmission. This is noteworthy in that less than 4% of ’49s were so built.

Art thinks that “perhaps this was a test engine that was run on a test stand for a while and then installed in a 48 chassis for some final testing before production began for 49. For example, the exhaust manifolds look “seasoned”, meaning the engine is not completely new. All this may mean that the photo was taken sometime in 1948.

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HAVING A BALL WITH LUCILLE

Lucille came into my life at a good time. I was feeling aimless and a bit down and she gave me a reason to get my thoughts together and gather up my tools. I don’t know why I named her Lucille; it just felt right. Someone I know suggested I call her Greta. He said it felt right; well, maybe for him. Let me tell you a bit about this beauty so you’ll understand how I got hooked.

I’ve admired the designs of Harley Earl since I was a kid. For the last 60 years, however, I didn’t know his name, just his sense of design. I narrowed down that I wanted a Harley Earl designed car and more specifically, a Cadillac. I narrowed down the years to about 1948 or 1949. The design and mechanics of those years to me were special to me. I chose 1949 since that was the year that the new V8 engine replaced the old flathead design. It introduced greater efficiency and horsepower while reducing the weight and size of the engine.

I Googled “1949 Cadillac” and one of the available choices mentioned that it was in Scarsdale, New York, a Westchester County suburb of New York City not far from my home in Patterson, NY. When the picture opened, I saw this beautiful dark green Cadillac parked on the streets of Scarsdale. The shape, design, color of the Series 62, 4 door sedan all but swept me off my feet. Oddly enough, it had a special New York license plate that said ‘HYDRMTIC’. I found that unusual. Why would anyone advertise that their car had an automatic transmission? To each his own. As days passed, I returned to that page repeatedly. I found that the car had been one of those participating in the Scarsdale Concours d’Elégance back in 2005. Well, we all have dreams and this was mine.

As I got more serious about actually buying an old car, I saw an ad in Hemmings Motor News offering a 1949 Caddy in that same nearby Westchester County. Well, that was close enough to be able to check out a car before buying. Previously, I had put in a winning bid on Ebay for a 1949 Caddy in Maine. The reserve was not met and I didn’t get that car, although the seller later contacted me about making a deal. As we exchanged emails, more and more faults of the car came out and I backed away from any deal. Now, looking back at that car, I was lucky not to get it.

I contacted the seller of my Hemmings’ Westchester County car who answered many questions and agreed to send pictures. When I opened the pictures on my computer, I saw that the car’s license plate read, “HYDRMTIC”. Wow! I had stumbled across my dream car. Fortunately, the price was excellent and I just agreed to it. The seller was a financial advisor with an impressive large, old home. He had bought this car 10 years ago at an auction at Lyndhurst Castle in Irvington, NY conducted by Christie’s Auction House. He showed me the published Christie’s booklet showing all the cars entered in this auction, including this beauty. Wow, this car was being sold with other fantastic cars whose values were estimated up to $750,000 by Christie’s. While this car’s value was a mere fraction of the value of the others, I felt it was sitting in good company.

The seller said that his interest in the car had slowly diminished and he wanted something newer. He provided great paperwork with the car, including the actual California license plate on the car when he got it, a copy of the owners’ manual, shop manual, original ‘build sheet’, data sheet, accessories brochure, loads of General Motors paper and some spare parts for the car. Time to clear out the garage!

I wound up completing the purchase and received the Christie’s booklet and the actual auction paddle used by the seller ten years ago. He also supplied ten years of receipts for repairs and purchases for this car. From the information on the paperwork, it was easy to see that he had put about 2,000 miles on the car in ten years (that’s an average of only 4 miles per week!). The car’s finish isn’t perfect and it needs some mechanical attention; however, I’m in love with Lucille and hope to show it off when gathering with my fellow members of the Cadillac-LaSalle and Lambda Car Clubs.

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