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GRAND NATIONAL REPORT

The 2012 Cadillac and LaSalle Club Grand National Meet took place in St. Augustine, Florida, June 13-16. I drove the 380 miles from my Georgia home to St. Augustine in my 6207, arriving Wednesday morning, the 13th (Art Gardner drove down from Georgia in his 56 Fleetwood). The host hotel, The Renaissance Resort, was great, as was the city of St. Augustine which has a neat waterfront area with lots of good restaurants. There were a number of ‘49ers attending besides me, including Ray Anderson, Sig Chrey, Frank Dickinson, Bill Edmunds, Art Gardner, John Giltinan, Ned Hannah and John Washburn. No doubt, there were others, too. A few of us gathered one evening, some with drinks in hand, as per the photo below. Left to right: ‘49er John Washburn, non-member Matern Harmsel, CLC Director of Technical Services Bill Anderson, ’49 Times Editor Art Gardner, ‘49er Sig Chrey and your author.

On the other hand, only 3 of us brought ‘49s to the GN: Ray Anderson’s Series 75 limousine, John Giltinan’s Series 62 4-door and my aforementioned Series 61 Club Coupe.

The photo below is of Ray’s limo, which won a first prize in Primary Class 12 for all ‘42-‘47s and ’48-‘49 Series 75.

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FINDING THOSE 49 PARTS AT HERSHEY AND ELSEWHERE

Greetings and salutations, my fellow ‘49ers! As another summer rapidly wanes, and we continue waxing, it’s an ideal time to look back on the shows, cruise nights and tours that we attended with our Cadillacs and “evaluate” just how well our “babies” looked and performed. With Old Man Winter on the horizon, it’s an excellent time to decide which parts we would like to upgrade or replace, whether they be cosmetic or mechanical in nature.
With Hershey only a month or so away, I always find it helpful to make up a “shopping list” of parts that need replacing/upgrading. When making such a list, it’s useful to include part numbers, if available. Sketches, with measurements, and even photos, will prove invaluable when searching for these parts. You will be amazed at how many parts can look similar, but not be correct, especially considering the thousands of parts available at such a huge venue!
Here are a couple of tips, based on many years buying and selling ’48,’49 and ’50 parts. Many chrome trim parts were made from “pot metal”, typically a “mix” of several metals that have a low melting point and therefore were easy to cast. The problem is pot metal parts tend to deteriorate badly, especially when exposed to the elements. When deciding whether to buy or not a particular part, keep in mind the difficulty and expense of having the part re-plated. If badly pitted, it very well may cost more to have the part re-plated than continuing your search for another in much better condition. Also, the sad fact is that many plating shops just do not have the expertise to properly re-plate pot metal parts. I could relate horror stories galore about paying large amounts of $$, only to find the plating shop essentially ruined the part(s) by grinding out all the detail. If the pot metal part is broken, search for another, unless the part is extremely rare, since pot metal is extremely difficult to weld.
Many other ’49 chrome parts, such as grill pieces, side “spears”, grill extensions, stone shields and the like were made from stamped sheet steel, then plated. Examine closely not only the outside surface but, more importantly, the inner side of these parts. More often than not, they develop rust out and corrode from the inside as debris gets trapped over the years. Although the outside chrome will appear perfect, it will look like Swiss cheese after being stripped and dipped at the plating shop, either necessitating repairs or even rendering it useless.
Finally, when searching for and buying parts, it’s always best if you can hold the part in your hand to examine it. If you decide or have to buy parts based on photos, such as on Ebay, the old Latin adage applies, “caveat emptor”, let the buyer beware. All too often, the condition of a part, or even the correct application, will be misrepresented, not necessarily intentionally, but due to the seller’s lack of knowledge. Always deal with reputable vendors who can provide references and offer a full refund if you’re not satisfied. A little prior planning and caution go a long way! Looking forward to seeing and chatting with you at Hershey!

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A FEW WORDS ON 49 SPRING HEIGHTS

Front Springs
There is usually no need to replace a front spring if it is not broken. With the front wheels on the ground, the front shock absorber arm should be about 1½-2 inches above the rubber bumper directly under the arm. If the shock absorber arm touches the rubber bumper with the wheels on the ground the springs are too high or “too strong”. As shown on a diagram on page 207 of the shop manual, there should be a distance of 4½-5¼ inches between the lower suspension arm and a point in the middle of the frame.

Rear Springs
The bottom of the ’49 rear fender skirt should be at the center of the rear hub cap medallion. More specifically, the ’49 shop manual has a diagram on page 208 showing the desired rear spring height. The center of the rear axle (or the center of the axle flange with the hub cap removed) should be 6-7 inches below the frame member directly above it. As these two surfaces are not in the same plane, it would be best to use two or more straight edges to approximate the linear distances between the surfaces. Note that the shop manual also states on page 48 that a variation of ½ inch is allowed in the rear spring height and that a variation of 3/8 inch is allowed between the right and left spring. The shop manual further states on page 48 that springs settle after installation, so it is best to wait 2,000 miles before taking these measurments to allow the springs to seat and settle. I had new rear springs installed some years ago and the back of my car was very high and looked odd for several months afterwards before the springs settled.

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GENERAL MOTORS FRANCE

56 à 60 Avenue Louis-Roche – GENNEVILLIERS (Seine)

MARQUE CADILLAC
TYPE 4962
CHASSIS NO 496250485
MOTEUR NO 496250485
N. DE CYLINDRES 8 96,84 X 92,07
ALESAGE ET COURSE
POID TOTAL MAXI 2339 KG.
EN CHARGE

Gennevilliers, the site of the GM headquarters in France in 1949, is a northwestern suburb of Paris in the Department of the Seine (named after the river which divides Paris into Left and Right Banks). Those of us not knowing much French should be able to easily figure out most of the rest of the information on the name plate down through “N. DE CYLINDRES”. The number 8 to the right of this phrase denotes, of course, the eight cylinders in the Cadillac motor.
The meaning of “Alésage et Course”, however, is not so readily apparent; in fact, these words mean bore and stroke. Commas in French numerals are the equivalent of decimal points in the English-speaking world, so “96,84 X 92,07” is the equivalent in millimeters of the familiar 3-13/16 inches x 3-5/8 inches bore and stroke dimensions of the ‘49 Cadillac motor. “Poids Total Maxi En Charge” means Maximum Total Weight When Loaded, presumably with fuel and passengers. 2,339 kilograms is the equivalent of 5,145 pounds, a full load for a 6207, since without fuel or passengers 1949 club coupes weigh not much more than 4,000 pounds or about 1,800 kilos.
You may be wondering why the car’s bore, stroke and weight would be important enough to merit inclusion on Carlos’ car’s French ID plate. I’m fairly certain this information was used by the French authorities as a basis to calculate the annual tax on the car. Compared to most French and other European motors, the ’49 Cadillac and its motor are large indeed, so it was assumed its fuel consumption would be much more than the typical Renault, Peugeot or Citroen. Since France imports all its petroleum products, the French government’s theory must be that higher taxes on heavy vehicles with large motors such as a ’49 Cadillac would discourage their sales and lead to lower overall fuel consumption.
The 331 cubic inch ’49 Cadillac motor’s displacement is the equivalent of 5,424 cubic centimeters. At the same time, a 1949 Peugeot 203’s motor was 1,290 cc. or 79 cubic inches, a ’49 Renault Juva’s motor was 1,000 cc. or 62 cubic inches and the diminutive 2-cylinder Citroen 2CV’s motor was only 374 cc. or 23 cubic inches, less than 1/10th the size of the 331, so the French government does have a point. Nonetheless, the car’s original owner in France thought the extra cost in price, fuel and road tax was worth paying for the power, prestige and luxury of a Cadillac 6207. And in 2012 so does Carlos and every other member of the Forty Niners.


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49 POWER STEERING REQUEST

My Dad bought a new dark blue four door Cadillac in 1950, trading in our 1938 Cadillac Sedan. Although quite young I loved that ’50 Cadillac. I always felt very safe riding in it and have many fond memories of it. For example, I was “allowed” to sit in the front seat, next to my Dad, only as long as I did not touch the wonder bar on the radio. It was an irresistible marvel. We called it a “wonder bar” because when you touched it the station selector would wonder back and forth, never finding a station. It would then have to go back to the dealer for repair.
As I got older I decided I wanted my very own replacement for the ’50. The rear fenders on the 1949 were more appealing to me so that was the way to go. I also wanted a car with the new OHV V-8. I had had a 1937 and wanted the newer motor. After several misses I finally did get a nice original 1949 two door fastback. It’s a great drive. My wife and I like to take it out for leisurely Saturday drives around some of our lakes. That old gal (the Car!!) sure turns heads.

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It would be more fun for me if it had power steering, guess I am getting old and soft. I have bought power steering parts from a 1955 Cadillac parts car to convert the 1949 to a factory like power steering set up. This is not a bolt in type of conversion and so I want to do it correctly the first time with safety and a workman like appearance.
Guys I really need your help here. I would like to hear from anyone who has successfully done this conversion or knows someone who has.

THE INFAMOUS HYDROLECTRIC SYSTEM PART II

In Part 1 in the December 2011 issue, I outlined the basic operating principles of Hydro-lectric systems, which were used by several automobile manufacturers during the1940s. Essentially, the Hydro-lectric system was an early version of power windows, seat and top which utilized a pump and reservoir containing (originally) brake fluid, a closed loop of metal lines and flexible hoses, hydraulic pistons, switches, springs, and solenoids to operate the various components.
In this second, and final, installment, I’d like to outline various trouble-shooting and testing procedures, and touch upon more technical aspects of the system. First, check the battery. For efficient operation, battery gravity reading should not be less than 1200 or equivalent voltage. In laymen’s terms, be sure the battery is fresh and fully charged. In some cases, a slightly discharged battery may be sufficient to run the hydraulic motor, but not sufficient to operate the power cylinder solenoids also. Hence, the complete system will not operate.
Next, check the fluid level in the pump reservoir. Typically, there is a line stamped into the front of the reservoir canister indicating the proper fluid level. Important note: When checking the fluid level in the pump reservoir, be sure all the windows are lowered, the top on convertibles should be down, and the front seat should be in a full rearward position! Failure in the electrical system, aside from a low battery, may be due to any number of causes such as loose wiring terminals, “grounds,” “shorts,” broken wire(s), or inoperative solenoids or switches.
There should be a solenoid, usually mounted on the firewall near the pump. To determine if current is reaching the circuit breaker, connect the positive lead of a tester to the power source terminal “A” of the circuit breaker and the negative lead to a good ground, as shown in Figure 1 on the next page. A current flow should register on the tester. If not, check the wire from the power source for a break or a short. In some cases, failure of the hydraulic motor to start may be caused by an inoperative motor solenoid switch.

To check the operation of this solenoid, connect one end of a jumper wire to the battery wire terminal “A” and the other end to the switch wire, terminal “B,” as shown below in Figure 2. If the switch is operating satisfactorily a “click” will be heard and the battery to motor circuit will be closed, starting the motor. If no “click” is heard, the solenoid should be replaced.

Next, to determine if the circuit breaker is operating, connect the positive lead of the tester to the switch feed wire terminal “B” of the circuit breaker and ground the negative lead, as shown below in Figure 3.
A current flow should register if the circuit breaker is operating. Sometimes, the power window, or power seat, switch may be at fault. On the back of the switch, using an individual window switch as an example, will be three terminals. These terminals will be marked “BAT” (battery), “MOT” (motor), and “CYL” (cylinder). The center terminal is typically the “battery,” or feed, terminal. You can test the operation of the switch by disconnecting the wires and using a simple ohmmeter. Place the 2 leads of the ohmmeter between the “BAT” and “MOT” terminals and push the toggle switch in the upwards position. If the switch is okay, you should get a reading on the ohmmeter. Use the same procedure to check for continuity between the “BAT” and the “CYL” terminals. Another simple way of testing the switch, with all wires connected, is to place a jumper wire between the “BAT” and “MOT” terminals. If the circuit and switch are okay, the hydraulic motor should start. When placing the jumper wire between the “BAT” and “CYL” terminals, you should hear a distinctive “click”, which is the cylinder solenoid operating.
As with most everything made in “the good old days,” these switches can be disassembled for cleaning or repair. They are basically a toggle with return springs and copper contacts. If the spring(s) or toggle assembly are not broken, you can usually restore these switches to operating condition simply by cleaning the copper contacts using 600 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper or a good commercial electrical contact cleaner.
In addition to the electrical system, it is imperative that all windows, power seat, and convertible top mechanisms operate freely by hand with no binding or obstructions. Clean and lubricate (I use white lithium grease) all pivot points on the frameworks containing the hydraulic cylinders, seat tracks on power seats, and pivot points on the convertible top. Inspect the mohair-lined U-shaped channels in which the window glass rides and replace if worn or damaged.
Finally, on convertibles only, there is an additional component I refer to as the power top control switch. This is a Bakelite unit mounted on the firewall with two wires attached to terminals, and fittings with metal lines attached. The top portion of this switch is attached to the “power top” operating knob and lever, which goes through the firewall and is attached to the bottom of the dash with a mounting bracket. When you “PULL” this rod, it rotates the top portion of the Bakelite unit. Inside this unit are return springs, a circular copper contact plate, and ports. When you “PULL” or “PUSH” the power top control rod, the upper portion of the Bakelite switch rotates, completing the electrical circuit and starting the hydraulic motor. At the same time, the appropriate ports inside the unit are uncovered, thus diverting the fluid to either raise, or lower, the top. This Bakelite switch can also be disassembled for cleaning, and can usually be restored to operating condition as long as the Bakelite housing isn’t broken.
So there you have it. What seems like a complicated system is actually quite simple when broken down into its individual components. New cylinders, hoses, Hydro-lectric motor and top control switch rebuilding, and expert technical advice are readily available from Hydro-E-Lectric in Punta Gorda, Florida by calling (800)343-4261. They are very knowledgeable and wonderful people to deal with!

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From the Prez

Greetings and salutations, my fellow ‘49ers! Spring has sprung and you know what that means: time to fire up our ’49 Cadillacs and get them ready for another season of cruise nights, shows and general enjoyment.
As part of the spring start-up ritual, I always recommend the following be done: 1. Remove all the spark plugs and squirt a couple of tablespoons of oil into each cylinder and crank the engine over by hand. During storage, the cylinders may become “dry” as gravity causes the oil film to seep downwards; 2. Change the oil and filter. Condensation can build up in the oil pan over the winter; 3. Check all fluid levels; 4. Check all tire pressures and examine the tires for signs of dry rot or other defects/damage; 5. Check all belts and hoses. Turn the fan belt inside out and closely examine it for cracks and splits which may not normally be visible; 6. Check the condition of the battery with a hydrometer. Fill low cells with distilled water. Remove both battery cables and clean them and both battery posts. Apply a small amount of grease to the top of each post and re-tighten cables firmly; 7. Performa thorough safety insection. Check proper operation of headlights (high and low beam), tail-lights, brake lights, directionals, wipers, horn, emergency brake, front end and steering components; 8. Examine all brake lines and hoses and look for telltale signs of brake fluid on the inside of the tires, which could indicate a leaking wheel cylinder; 9. When was the last time you cleaned, re-packed and adjusted the front wheel bearings; 10. Don’t forget to check the fluid level in the differential! This list is not all-inclusive, but I believe I’ve covered the salient points. Adherence to this preventative maintenance routine could save you a lot of grief on the road and, more importantly, possibly prevent an accident!
The ‘49ers chapter continues to grow, and we have well over 200 members in 38 US states and 10 other countries. We extend a hearty welcome to new members. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to attend the Grand National in St. Augustine, Florida, but Jay Friedman, newsletter editor Art Gardner and many other members will be there. Meet chairman Len Berman has informed the Times that a room has been reserved for our annual Forty Niners chapter meeting at the host hotel, the Renaissance Resort, at 4:15 pm on Saturday, June 16th, immediately following the car judging. Be sure to check the registration desk and hospitality room for the location of the meeting.
Remember, if you’re in the market to purchase Steele Rubber Products, please call our friend and chapter benefactor, Ed Cholakian at AllCads of the ‘40s, telephone: 702-454-1147 or online at allcads.com to place your order. Mention that you are a member of the ‘49ers and Ed will extend a 20% discount. Allcads also stocks a massive supply of new and used ’49 parts.
Wishing all of you the best for 2012. Get your ’49 out and have fun.

Keep ‘Em Rolling!

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BLEEDING BRAKES AFTER REPLACING BRAKE LINES

by Art Gardner

If you replace brake lines and/or replace or re-do wheel cylinders, it can be a chore to get all of the air back out of the lines and cylinders. Here is a trick I came up with recently (this probably been used by lots of mechanics over the years, but it only occurred to me in the last month or so).
The idea is to fill the lines and the cylinders as full as possible with fluid before installing them. Recently, we replaced the rear lines, rear hose, F-to-R line, and rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders on my ‘50. To avoid endless pumping and bleeding of the brakes, I filled the cylinders as full as I could with fresh fluid, then attached the new (relatively short) steel lines and snugged them up. Then I filled the line and the cylinder the rest of the way by pouring brake fluid down the line, using a skinny awl to lead the fluid into the line like a reverse funnel. (See drawing on next page.) After filling the line and cylinders completely, we put a tight rubber cap on the end of the line and installed the cylinder/line. For the flexible rubber brake hose and the F-to-R steel line, we did basically the same thing.
We had removed the wheel cylinders to rebuild them and were installing new lines at the same time. So pouring the fluid into the lines up was no trouble. If you were doing it with the wheel cylinders still on the car, you could put a rubber hose on the end of the line and bend up the rubber hose to give you a vertical run to pour into and to provide the elevation change needed to force the air to rise up and out of the line. If you do it with the wheel cylinder still on the car, you might need to open the bleeder valve to let some of the air out that way. Since I had the lines oriented vertically with the wheel cylinders off the car, I didn’t need to open the bleeder and the air escaped up the line.
As a result, there was very little spillage and it didn’t take very long to fill the system or bleed the brakes. The net effect is that when we bled the brakes, there was very, very little air in the system that needed to be purged. We had a firm pedal almost from the start and the entire bleeding process only took about 10 minutes.

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WHAT TO DO IF YOUR MOTOR SUFFERS FROM VAPOR LOCK

Lately, I’ve been hearing more stories about ’49 Cads experiencing vapor lock. This ailment is due to engine heat causing gasoline to boil away or vaporize at certain spots in the fuel line. This makes for air in the fuel line, starving your engine of fuel, which will then stall or refuse to start. As ’49 Cadillacs were not known for having this problem in the past, it makes me wonder if it is not some new problem with the formulation of gasoline. The following may help and if any members have additional suggestions, please send them to the Times:

1. Check to see if air is freely flowing through the radiator and that the motor is running at a normal temperature;
2. Check your steel fuel line make sure it is not passing to close to the driver’s side exhaust manifold and check the flexible fuel line from the end of the steel line into the fuel pump to make sure it is not touching or passing very close to the oil filler housing or another hot part of the motor;

One possible solution is to wrap an insulating material around the rubber fuel line between the end of the steel line and the fuel pump. You can also do the same for the steel line between the pump and the carburetor. A good insulator is a length of rubber fuel line or, alternatively, insulated hose used for radiator return lines. It should be of the right diameter; that is, of course, bigger than the line to be wrapped. Cut it longitudinally (along its length) and place it around the length of the fuel line to be insulated. It’s expensive (at $4 / foot here in GA), but if it solves the problem is money well spent. Another insulation material is aluminum foil. I’m not sure about other alternatives to cover the fuel lines, but you can try McVey’s for some insulating material, as they do sell stuff of this type for exhaust pipes, or go to a hardware store and see what they suggest.
Another solution is to install an electric fuel pump. If you do so, I would not do away with the mechanical pump, but merely have the electric pump as an auxiliary. I have such a set up on 2 of my cars (but not my ’49 Cad which does not vapor lock yet). Install it so that the electric pump on a separate small fuel circuit with 2 “T” connections near the fuel tank and not merely in line with the mechanical pump. A more ambitious electric fuel pump installation involves installing a “T” connection just outside the fuel tank, with one branch of the “T” connection serving the existing steel fuel line and the mechanical pump. From the 2nd branch of this “T” connection near the fuel tank, install a short line to the electric pump. From the outlet of the electric pump install a second long steel fuel line, parallel to the long steel existing line, all the way to a rubber line going into a second “T” connection near the carburetor, thereby bypassing the mechanical pump altogether. This second set-up will look funny but will probably work well. The mechanical pump puts out 4 to 5¼ lbs, so the electric pump should not put out more than this.
If you suspect your engine temperature is too hot, a good way to accurately check it is to temporarily hook up a mechanical temp gauge to the same point on the rear of the passenger’s side cylinder head as the stock electrical sending unit. You can buy one and any necessary screw-in adapter inexpensively at an auto parts store. You install it by temporarily removing the passenger’s side ventilating tube, run the cable through the hole and gently close the vent valve over the cable to prevent most hot air entering the engine compartment. I’ve done this with my own car and have been surprised at the difference in readings between the stock electrical and auxiliary mechanical temperature gauge readings.
On the other hand, the motor’s symptoms may be due to something else altogether, a constricted fuel line. See John Washburn’s article in the May 2011 Self Starter.

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LISTING OF PARTS AVAILABLE FROM NAPA THAT MAY FIT A 49 CADILLAC

Part Description Manufacturer NAPA Part # Price
Contact Set (Points) Echlin ECH CS777A $ 17.29
Distributor Condenser Echlin ECH RR174 $ 8.49
Distributor Cap Echlin ECH RR1580 $ 15.49
Distributor Rotor Echlin ECH RR159 $ 14.29
Spark Plug Wire Set – Premium BEL BEL 700170 $ 38.99
Stoplight Switch Echlin ECH SL128 $ 24.49
Thermostat Housing Gasket THM STM1 $ 1.09
Thermostat – Premium (160?) THM THM 532060 $ 9.99
Thermostat – Premium (180?= OEM) THM THM 532080 $ 9.99
Thermostat – Premium (195?) THM THM 532090 $ 9.99
Radiator Cap (13 lb.) Balkamp BK 7031445 $ 6.09
Belt – Fan & Generator PBH NBH 257570 $ 18.29
Generator Bushing – Front Echlin ECH AD1238 $ 4.49
Generator Brush Echlin ECH SD725 $ 4.29
Starter Brush Echlin ECH R503 $ 3.29
Starter Repair Kit Echlin ECH SRK104 $ 27.49
Starter Solenoid Repair Kit Echlin ECH STK2 $ 14.69
Inner Wheel Bearing – Front Wheel BRG B62 $129.00
Outer Wheel Bearing – Front Wheel BRG B73 $ 95.49
Wheel Seal – Front Wheel NOS 19940 $ 13.49
Wheel Cylinder Kit – Front UP 36 $ 3.99
Wheel Cylinder Kit – Rear UP 20 $ 3.99
Brake Shoes – Front, Tru-Stop Tru-Stop TS TS127 $ 24.99
Brake Shoes – Rear, Tru-Stop Tru-Stop TS TS
Wiper Blade – Classic WIP 601233 $ 13.29


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